Peering out of a portal, I spotted waves splashing up against the rocks. The hum of the ferry’s engine seemed to grow louder as the vessel neared shore. A horn sounded as we entered the island’s Old Harbor. It was a cool and windy June morning, and the boat carrying passengers, vehicles and cargo alike had reached its destination.
Somewhere northeast of Montauk point, southwest of Martha’s Vineyard, and about thirteen miles off Rhode Island’s shore sits magical Block Island. Literally a block of land sticking out of the Atlantic Ocean, this beautiful and relatively unknown gem is New England’s quintessential summer vacation isle. Once a pirate hangout that hosted numerous sieges involving native tribes and the settling colonists from the Massachusetts Bay Colony, today’s life there exudes a sense of peace and tranquility.
Block Island is best known for its long, beautiful beaches, an abundance of boating and fishing, rolling green hills dotted with fresh water ponds, and fantastic seafood. The area of land is small – just under ten square miles. More than forty percent is protected for wildlife, seasonally inhabited by birds along the Atlantic Flyway. An absence of traffic lights and chain stores (save a Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream shop) are most welcome in this somewhat timeless and classically aesthetic place.
For the third consecutive summer solstice I had been drawn back to this picturesque island, and not just for its scenery. An electronic jam band, The Indobox, along with its posse of avid followers and friends, have been congregating there every June since 2008, fittingly dubbing their early summer tradition, “Box Island.”
“We started coming out here eight summers ago,” said lead guitarist Michael Carter. “When you leave the mainland and you’re out on the island it’s like we’re in our own little bubble.” What first began as an invitation to play in the Block Island Music Festival has evolved into a yearly convention for the four piece group from Boston.
The weekend is centered around two performances by The Indobox at a fun and quirky bar named Captain Nick’s. These shows draw an interesting crowd – our group is joined by locals, summer vacationers, and anybody else who happens to be within ear-shot of the roadside venue. “Similar to the location, our band is somewhat under the radar,” Carter said. “The event has grown into what it is now: in a way, we take over the island for a weekend.”
Weaving electronic rock with a diverse range of musical styles (including indie-rock and dub influences), the band gains a certain kind of momentum on stage during its performances. Stephen Learson’s (keyboard, bass, vocals) duality between an array of bass lines and polished leads from his synthesizers direct the group through much of its written material. Taking turns with the melodic torch, Carter possesses the band’s best voice, and his precisely played high notes along with the soaring tone from his guitar consistently augment stage energy.
In addition to its own material, The Indobox is known for performing noteworthy cover songs. This latest edition of Box Island included music by L.C.D. Soundsystem, Hot Chip, and producer Miike Snow. Audience interaction is frequent at these Captain Nick’s gigs too, ranging from song requests shouted from the crowd to marriage proposals on stage during set break.
“This place is just so reliably perfect,” said Jules Jenssen, the band’s drummer. “It doesn’t change, but in the best way.” Jenssen, who joined group in 2011, has been coming to the island since he was a kid. Though not affiliated with this event from its beginning, Jenssen’s family has roots that run deep on Block Island: his father used to play rock and folk music at Captain Nick’s every summer in the 1970s and 80s.
During this year’s performances, it was the young Jenssen that stood out amongst his friends on stage, stealing the show at times with his steady yet innovative use of his kit. Though mainly providing a consistent, dance-rock beat for the other three members to thrive upon, Jenssen himself seized one opportunity after the next to display his rhythm skills, in particular control and creativity using his “hi-hat” and percussion pieces.
Two Box Island events occur during the day on Saturday: the Disco Brunch, followed by a Craft Beer Share several hours later. The brunch is a strictly liquid affair located on the patio of none other than Captain Nick’s. For the second time in the last three years, Brooklyn-based D.J. Speakerbot spun some classic yacht rock and disco grooves, entertaining a hungover yet energetic crowd.
Later in the afternoon, The Indobox and company gather on a wrap-around porch of a nearby Bed & Breakfast, The Gothic Inn (fittingly named for its gothic, late-victorian wooden architecture, this cute hotel was fully occupied by Box Island attendees for the second year in a row). “A few years ago, Jules and I decided that we should bring some beers to share,” said Forrest Chess, the Indobox’s manager. “Now an annual component of Box Island, we counted over 60 beers… which were enjoyed by just as many people.” Representing small breweries from New England such as Maine Beer Co. and Hill Farmstead, an impressive selection of double IPAs and sour ales are tasted in group fashion. This is one of the finer traditions that has stemmed from this annual gathering.
While not missing any of the scheduled activities, a small group of close friends and I made time to explore the land outside of New Shoreham, the only town on Block Island. Transporting ourselves via a caravan of one yellow sports car and two mopeds, our group roamed the island over its lush and hilly terrain. Driving alongside stone walls, we eventually arrived at one of the finer strips of sand in New England, Mansion Beach. Largely uninhabited, we lounged and sun-bathed for the greater part of an afternoon, taking in breezes under the warm, early summer sun.
As the weekend drew to a close, and friends boarded the same ferry which brought us here a few days prior, it felt as if more time had passed. Enjoying the longest days of the year, this annual solstice celebration on Block Island is a fitting beginning to the best of the four seasons. Box Island combines three important components of life: close friends and great music in an especially memorable setting. Watching the small strip of land disappear onto the horizon from the ferry’s stern, the yearning to return had already begun.
– words and pictures by Alex Raubicheck